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 O.K. We like Cairns and have decided to make the trip back to Townsville
to fly to Sydney for a couple of weeks, leaving the boat in a cyclone proof place then get back up hear to find
work.
We have a few days to play around with before we have to head back and have decided to explore some more reefs while the weather is great! Upolu Reef, Hastings Reef and Vlassof Cay 17th Nov to 22nd Nov 2009 We visited Upolu Reef, Hastings Reef and Vlassof Cay. We met a wonderful couple Marjorie and Bill who sailed their boat over from Alaska. We had a fabulous time exploring the reefs with Marjorie and Bill and sharing some fantastic meals. Darien took an instant shine to them and they very kindy offered to baby sit so Paul and I could dive together which was just fantastic being the first time that we have been able to do so since we left and the first time we have dived together since our honeymoon over 8 years ago.
Townsville 30th November 2009
19'15.204S 146'49.341E It was now time to head back to Townsville for our flight back to Sydney. We did get a few good sails in and did use the beautiful Yanmar a bit making it back with a couple of days to get Byamee cyclone ready. The heat and the humidity making everything a real challenge. Sydney 3rd Dec 2009 to 21st Dec 2009 It was just great to see everyone, to celebrate Paul's dad's 80th birthday and have an early Christmas with the family as well as heaps of great dinners with friends. Spontaneous dinners out with friends who know you so well you can have a good laugh with on a special level is something that you don't really get when travelling. That being said Byamee is our home now and it was great to get back here too. We have a long list of things we need to get done before going offshore and we're keen to get on with it. Wheeler Reef 27th Dec - 29th Dec 2009 18'47.710S 147'31.283E We did manage to squeeze in one more reef trip before heading back up to Cairns with Tracey who flew up from Sydney to spend a few days with us. Wheeler Reef is almost 50nm from Townsville and just spectacular. There is one public mooring bouy which we picked up and a number of smaller white bouys which would appear to be for dive boats to use for their tenders and divers as they seemed to be at some great diving locations. Paul and I had some great dives - just awesome. The place was alive with sea life. In the evenings we would sit on deck and watch huge waves of tiny silver fish jumping out of the water and other much larger fish jumping clear out of the water putting on a fantastic display. We sat there ooing and ahhing as if we were watching fireworks. It was like being in a David Attenborough wildlife documentary. There is a sand cay there but due to the tides at the time it didn't dry for us but it did make a pristine shallow sandy swimming area. It is a bit of a distance to get to but well worth the effort and because of the distance you really don't get many other people out there. Back to Cairns 30th Dec 2009 We had a slow, wet and wild time getting back to Cairns. The first half of the journey we had heaps of tropical squalls and monsoon rain. Very very wet. I got to say it did get a bit boring sailing up, down and back up the same stretch of coast. It was nice to have some knowledge of the places you are approaching but it is not the same as the excitement of discovering new places. We did stop at Dunk Island for the third time and again had a great time. The staff there are all very young but very friendly and proffesional. Our cruising guide book indicated that Dunk Island does not welcome yachties but we found that to be anthing but the case. The staff were so friendly and Darien got to hold animals at a petting zoo, ride a horse (for $10 as we were not staying on the island), they have two beautiful pool areas which we spent a lot of time at and did a few walks on the Island. We enjoyed evenings at the resort bar where they put on entertainment every night and they are very kid friendly. The island also has a camping area at one end with very upmarket showers which we also took advantage of.
The other great stop was Zoe Bay on the east coat of Hinchinbrook Island.
It is exposed to a swell but has the most spectacular water fall and swimming hole that you get to via a track through the
rainforest. And to top off the whole experience Paul met one of Australia's great football players on shore and they showed
us the track and swimming hole.
Reflections of Life on Board After 9 Months
The trip back to Sydney certainly made me reflect on the different lifestyle we now have living on board Byamee. It is certainly a slower lifestyle for a few reasons. For a start you don't have a car so just getting a part for the boat, a loaf of bread from the shop or renting a video can take hours by the time you get ashore, secure the dingy, find out where the shops are, catch a bus or two, walk a bit then make your way back - but what's the hurry. We really have had to accept that we cannot get things done at the pace we were used to in Sydney. It is a great thing to feel self sufficent and to do all the boat repairs and maintenance for ourselves (even though we may not think so at the time). Some of which are very challenging and some very very scary!!
Paul and I made a little pact - I am happy to do the repairs up the mast as long as he looks after everything
under the water line. So far it has been working fine. Not only did Paul get the toilet repair but he has also had to
dive to free the anchor when the chain got wrapped around a bommie.
The work on the boat can also be back braking, often
trying to squeeze your body into places you really don't fit then somehow getting your hands and head close to the part
you need to work on and exerting pressure to unscrew or tighten things in this bizarre yoga state.
Then there is the really cool stuff.
Water Usage - we are finding that a 250 litre tank of water is lasting between 7 and 10 days for the three
of us. That includes drinking water, washing dishes, water for cooking and showers (I have to say it is usually just
a quick rinse). Clothes washing is usually done at marina laundries but if we are desperate we use the dirty shower water
to wash a few clothes.
Gas - for the oven and stove seems to last forever. Each bottle lasting for approx 2 months and we use gas every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as the odd cup of tea. Power - the set up we have is working very well for us and so far we have not had to sacrifice anything, running a computer, television, DVD player, lights and a fridge any time we want and all the time in the evenings. The solar panels and the wind turbine usually manage all our needs during the day and if we haven't gone anywhere (ie haven't used the motor which charges the batteries) we use the Honda generator in the evening for around half an hour to top up the batteries. The fridge is on all the time and is the biggest drain on power. We have found that a full fridge uses less power to maintain it's temperature and reducing the temperature in very small increments to get to the required tempurate is much more energy efficient than just reducing the temperature in one go (after giving the fridge a good clean out). Fuel and petrol consumption - Overall it is proving to be a very rewarding time for us with heaps of magic moments and heaps of challenges to deal with. 20/01/2010 We have decided that our long layover
in Cairns is the perfect oportunity for us to get Byamee in ship shape as we prepare for our departure from Australia and
our journey around the globe.With that in mind we made a list of all the things that need attention and were a little stunned
at just what needs fixing.....a very long list
The List
So for those of you thinking we were sitting out here doing nothing think again ! Tropical cyclone Olga 23rd January 2010 On the 23rd Jan 2010 Darien and I got up and wrapped presents and made a cake for Paul’s birthday. I had been watching a tropical low that had been hovering off the coast for nearly a week threatening to become a cyclone but seemed to be weakening so I thought it prudent to do my weather checks. Boy did I get a shock to see a cyclone sitting next to the tropical low and it was heading straight for us. There had not been any movement of boats from the marina and the system was still well off shore moving east at around 17 knots. We decided to go ashore late in the afternoon to speak to a few people at the marina, do a bit of washing and go for a swim. Everyone was anticipating an evacuation around 10am Sunday. As we were leaving the marina everyone started getting text messages indicating a yellow alert - destructive winds within the next 24 hours and that all vessels should make their way to allocated areas in the mangroves either before nightfall or at 5.30am first light. With only half an hour till dark most decided to leave first light, us included. I was terrified, images of houses being torn apart and debris flying all over the place were flashing through my mind. We had not been down into the mangroves so the uncertainty of that was alarming in case we did have to leave in the dark. I didn’t sleep a wink the whole night. We watched the larger vessels move out to sea and heard more and more terrible squalls come through during the night. I heard one guy decide to head into the mangroves just after midnight because the weather seemed to be turning for the worse and another boat already down there offering to help him get in. I spent the night jumping up to the radio at the slightest crackle. I actually wanted to move too but Paul said I was mad and that we should wait till the morning. Considering there were boats scattered everywhere and the squally conditions that was the right decision. At 5am we were up doing final preparations and waited for first light. Around 6am we headed for the mangroves and a blue alert was declared – destructive winds within16 hours and everyone had to leave. Olga however, had moved a little north east and the forecast path had shifted to north of Port Douglas. It took around an hour to get down to the areas we needed to be and we anchored three times before we were happy that we had room to swing around and protection from the mangroves. By this time we were both just exhausted and Darien who had slept through the whole thing was just starting to stir. We were a little surprised at how few boats (especially other yachts) seemed to be around because the harbour had been so full. Paul is going to go out in the dingy a little later to see where they all are. There have been a quite a few tenders buzzing around between boats so we think they may be just a little further in or that they came down after us. Well the cyclone looks like making landfall at Cape Tribulation now so we will be lucky to get winds over 35 knots. It’s a little disappointing given all the anxiety and hype before the event. Hopefully we will spot a croc while we are down here. The mangroves really are the safest place to be. We saw some really large navy vessels tied directly alongside the mangroves. The wind just can’t get through the mangroves and there is nothing that can come flying at you. Even if your boat did get blown against the mangroves you would probably only end up with a few scratches on the hull. You know I was worried about a direct hit if the cyclone intensified with Darien on board but I have to say this is definitely the safest place to be. Not only can you get out of the wind but you are safe from the flooding in a boat which is the other potentially life threatening result of a cyclone. Well we sit and wait now until Olga has weekened which will be after landfall and until we are given the all clear to head back to the harbour. Little Darien will miss both her ballet enrollment and her first swimming lesson which is a little frustrating so I hope the teachers are understanding.
25-Jan-2010 What is it about marine spare parts? How is it that the spare part is almost as expensive as buying the whole item. We have been having endless problems with our marine manual pump toilet. In an effort to be a frugal and resourceful sailor I have tried to fix it. Using epoxy (my number one defense against boat breakages) I have tried to stop the leak from the base of the toilet. After a week of being elbow deep in shit I decided to replace the offending piece (a bit of plastic with no moving parts that connects the bowl to the floor) cost $115.00. Cost of new toilet $219.00. As we Australian's say this was a no brainer so we purchased a new dunny. |
